Sivota, Lefkada: a guide to the harbour.

If you stay anywhere on the south-east coast of Lefkada, you will end up in Sivota more than once: for lunch, for a boat, or simply because it is the nearest harbour. This is our guide to it, written for people staying nearby rather than sailing in.

Which Sivota?

There are two places with this name in the Ionian, and they are easy to confuse. Sivota on Lefkada, also written Syvota (Σύβοτα in Greek), is a small harbour village on the island's south-east coast. Syvota on the mainland is a resort in Epirus, opposite Corfu. If a website mentions Corfu across the water, or beaches you cannot find on a map of Lefkada, it is describing the other one. When you search for places to eat or stay, always add "Lefkada".

The harbour

Sivota sits at the head of a long, deep bay, closed in by hills thick with trees. The inlet is so sheltered that on a still day the water inside looks like a lake. It has a small port where local fishing boats and visiting yachts moor side by side, and in summer the yachts line the quay stern-to, right in front of the taverna tables.

That is the whole village, more or less: a waterfront of tavernas, a few cafés, a couple of mini-markets, boats to hire, and houses climbing the slopes behind. It is on the south-east coast, about 32 km south of Lefkada Town, about 15 km south of Nidri and about 10 km before Vasiliki.

Sivota is in the middle of the Ionian sailing area, so its rhythm follows the boats. In the morning the quay is quiet and the yachts are leaving. In the early afternoon the sailing flotillas arrive and moor for the night, and the waterfront fills. In the evening the lights come on along the water and the tables stay full late.

Eating in Sivota

Sivota has wonderful fish tavernas by the water, with fresh fish, as well as places for meat, cafés and whatever else you need during the day. It is worth coming for breakfast too.

There is more in Where to eat in south Lefkada.

Boats from Sivota

This is the other reason to come. Small motorboats are hired on the quay by the half day or the day, including boats you can drive without a boating licence. The rental company explains the limits that apply, shows you the boat and the safety equipment, and tells you the area you may use. If they don't, ask. Our guide to hiring a boat without a licence covers what to check before you set off.

Most organised boat trips on Lefkada leave from Nidri and spend their first hour getting south. From Sivota you start where the good water is. Within an easy run you have:

• Meganisi, across the channel: its coves, the Papanikolis sea cave and lunch in Vathy or Spartochori.
• The coves along the shore of Mikros Gialos, and the sea cave there.
• Kalamos and Kastos further out. Ask the rental company whether they are inside the area allowed for your boat.

Go mid-morning, while the channel is calm, and plan to be back before the afternoon wind picks up. Small boats have little shade, so bring hats, sun cream and plenty of water, and ask whether fuel is included in the price.

Swimming near Sivota

Sivota is a harbour, not a beach. Swimmers use the rocks near the mouth of the bay, away from the moorings. For a proper beach, drive a few minutes either way:

• Mikros Gialos, to the north: a sheltered pebble bay with very clear water, tavernas and a lifeguard. It is about 15 minutes by car from Sivota. Our guide to Mikros Gialos.
• Afteli, to the south: a small pebbly cove about 7 km from Sivota, good for snorkelling around the rocks, with a beach bar and sunbeds. The last few kilometres from the main road are narrow and winding, and the parking fills up, so go before 10am.
• Vasiliki, about 10 km west: a long beach on a wide bay, with windsurfers on the water in the afternoon. Pondi beach at Vasiliki has lifeguards.
• The west coast: Porto Katsiki, Egremni and Kathisma are about an hour's drive over the mountain. Go once, early. Our beach guide helps you choose.

Practical things

• Parking: there is parking near the harbour, but in July and August it fills at lunchtime and in the evening, so come early.
• Shops: a couple of mini-markets for the basics.
• When: June and September are the easiest months for lunch on the quay. In July and August, come early.

Staying near Sivota

We look after villas all over Lefkada. See all the villas we look after, by area.

A day around Sivota

Here is how we would spend one. Swim early at Mikros Gialos, while the bay is glassy. Drive to Sivota by ten, pick up a small boat and cross to Meganisi for the sea cave and a cove of your own. Bring the boat back before the wind, and sit down to lunch on the quay before the flotillas arrive. Spend the hot afternoon by the pool. In the evening, drive up past Poros onto the ridge and watch the strait change colour as the sun goes down behind the island.

More ideas for the area are in things to do in the south of Lefkada, and the whole coast is described in our guide to the south-east coast.